Need Assistance for my New House

[ausraja]

thx manjunath.i made sure that the footings were moved a bit and the columns were cenric.

[ausraja]

I got my RCC sump completed today which is 14ft*7ft*4.5ft holding 12000 lts capacity and as usual one more challenge has faced me now which contractors don't have brains to have a solution in-spite of doing same work their whole life.

I am building a house in a layout in which water is supplied from the layout association and each house has like G+floors built for rental purpose and many dont have borewells since the water is supplied from bore-wells dug by the association.There is a pipe connection for each house in front of the house and the water pipe is like 4 feet under the ground from which water has to flow to my tank using gravity.

The problem is since i have built the sump which has a limited depth and more width and breadth the water from the pipe will back flow after filling half a feet in the sump ......Now i had to i am forced to take the water pipe 4.5ft high upto the top of the tank and then fill my tank.This has become a problem because most of the other houses in the layout have the sump which is 6 to 8ft deep and can store at-least sufficient water.

Any thoughts on how i cant get out of this mess after spending 1.5 lakhs for the sump ?

[baruc2003]

hi,
Even though the water pipe is 4ft deep u can attach the same to your sump at 1/2 feet below the roof of your sump. water would have the pressure up to the height of your layout water-tank. (again depends on no of pipes connected) you can connect a valve if needed to stop water flowing the opposite direction.
you mean other people who have 8ft deep sump fill only 4 feet of water?
Thanks,
Bharath

[gsNagesh]

There is something called non-return valve. (also called as check valve. )
Simply put, this valve allows flow in one direction and automatically prevents back flow (reverse flow) when water in the line reverses direction. They are one of the few self-automated valves that do not require assistance to open and close.

Hope this will solve your issue.

- Nagesh.

[ausraja]

baruc2003 and nagesh thanks for your inputs , can you also assist me in telling where can i get this valves ? can you tell me the name of company and good plumbing hardware shop in bangalore where i can but them ? also if you find any online reference of that compant then please post it for our reference.

[ausraja]

New Problem .........

I have left 3 feet opening for placing the door frames and many of this openings are just next to a RCC column on one side and a brick wall on the other side.If i place a frame say of 3 feet with a thickness 5"x 3" then its not fitting in and i cant do anything with the columns and i hate to the cut one to 2 feet of my brick wall.

please note that the frame has a 3" extension on the top and an metal "Z" shaped angle in the middle to make it hold onto the walls.

In addition to this if i reduce the internal width of the door then i cant get flush door of a standard dimension.


ANY SUGGESTIONS .....I haven't purchased the wood but facing problem with temp door that i wanted to fix in one of the rooms for storing material.

[nagzzz]

1. Easiest way is to cut into the brick wall. No other way. At my site, I was able to fit frames into 3' opening without any issues. You still need to break at places where Z clamps come.
2. You can alter the frames and the Flus Doors by cutting a bit from the sides. Flus doors can be cut as far as i know. Is the 3' for Main door? then I would suggest only the first option.
3. If you have not purchased the flus doors yet, you can look at Composite FRP doors and frames, which I bought. Those folks can work around on the size of the door.
Hope this helps.

[ausraja]

i have not purchased the wood and flush doors still.I have left 3ft for inner doors , 3.6ft for main door and 2.6ft for toilet doors.

[ausraja]

I have a (i)window opening for 5'(width) x 41/2'(height) and (ii) dorr opening 7' x 3' so in order to purchase wood what lengh\th of wood must i purchase ?

is it

(i) WINDOW
a) Two pieces of 5' and Five pieces of 41/2'
b) Two pieces of 5' and Four pieces of 41/2'
c) Two pieces of 5' and Three pieces of 41/2'
d) Two pieces of 51/2' and Five pieces of 41/2'
e) Two pieces of 51/2' and Four pieces of 41/2'
f) Two pieces of 51/2' and Three pieces of 41/2'

(ii) DOOR(No SIL)

a) One pieces of 3' and Two pieces of 7'
b) One pieces of 31/2' and Two pieces of 7'
a) One pieces of 3' and Two pieces of 71/2'
b) One pieces of 31/2' and Two pieces of 71/2'

thx in advance

[Nivas]

I suggest you buy the "width" or horizontal pieces with 6 inches extra and height pieces exactly of the height of the opening.
a) The extra 3 inch on each side , allows the carpenter to do a full size tenon\mortise joint . which has more stability. In case there is a RCC wall they will cut off this extra 3 inch ,later which the joint becomes weak. So if you are sure to cut one side , then ask the carpenter to do a half tenon\mortise join on one side. this way even if you cut off the joint is strong.
b) Clamping \ Holds when there is a column by side: I have the same problem , I am planning to get a custom MS hold that is holding the door with nails.
for door with no threshold , buy 2 height pieces + 1 width piece with xtra 6 inch.
for window , mullions depends on the no of shutters and design. if its simple vertical partition all through , no of height pieces = No of shutters + 1